Saturday, January 30, 2010
Sunday, January 24, 2010
its been a little while. first, Hueco. trip was fantastic! 8 days (not nearly enough) in the texas bastion of boulders. the absolute greatest. the quality of rock and people are unsurpasable. an incredible cast of characters who come to check the season, the texas warmth, bouldering in the sun, and getting down on some of the greatest problems in the world. it was an honor just to be there and move on rock with such incredible fellow climbers and classic problems. linder, heather johnson, lucas, matt wilder, rocco, charles, kk, andy mann! - the list goes on. the place just reeks of strength.
classic problems - everything from See Spot Run, Nobody Gets Out Of Here Alive, Ghetto Simulator, Mexican Chicken, Fern's Roof, Truce and Cross, and my personal favorite - Baby Martini. just to name some. the whole experience was amazing. the Martini Cave is a holy place. to think that Fred Nicole came in there and FA'd all those problems is incredible. Esperanza is an amazing looking line.
photos to soon follow.
waiting at the gate is an experience, as i had been told before arriving in hueco. waking up at 530am to arrive at 6am in order to wait 3-4 hours before the guards let people in order of spots from cancelled reservations. its an experience and a definite hassle but one that i think is well worth it once you get inside the park and realize how amazing everything really is and what the climbing can actually give you. to come to such a place, where the greats before have tested themselves, put up lines, searched and thrown themselves against rock and crimp and hueco, and continue to do so, is humbling yet super rewarding. cant wait to go back!
classic problems - everything from See Spot Run, Nobody Gets Out Of Here Alive, Ghetto Simulator, Mexican Chicken, Fern's Roof, Truce and Cross, and my personal favorite - Baby Martini. just to name some. the whole experience was amazing. the Martini Cave is a holy place. to think that Fred Nicole came in there and FA'd all those problems is incredible. Esperanza is an amazing looking line.
photos to soon follow.
waiting at the gate is an experience, as i had been told before arriving in hueco. waking up at 530am to arrive at 6am in order to wait 3-4 hours before the guards let people in order of spots from cancelled reservations. its an experience and a definite hassle but one that i think is well worth it once you get inside the park and realize how amazing everything really is and what the climbing can actually give you. to come to such a place, where the greats before have tested themselves, put up lines, searched and thrown themselves against rock and crimp and hueco, and continue to do so, is humbling yet super rewarding. cant wait to go back!
Sunday, January 10, 2010
ice is right
good times today. a fantastic introduction to the world of ice climbing by some great folks from nyc. strong climbers who were super psyched to get on ice in a great area tucked away up in the Catskill mountains. all i can say is that it was cold but worth every minute. ice, mixed climbing, is totally next level. sometimes brute, sometimes beautiful, always intense.
mixed climbing especially has a beautiful aspect to it. an incredible challenge when combining the necessary skill for rock climbing and ice climbing into one route. truly an endevour. i am super impressed with all the alpine climbers out there who are delicately making their way up pitches at high altitude or sea level - super control and mental prowess.
pumpy but getting it done. great day out. winter in the north east - not all bad.
Friday, January 8, 2010
do good
http://www.americanfoundationforchildrenwithaids.org/
check this out if you get a chance. great organization. climbers doing wonderful things to help out as much as possible.
was training yesterday with friends. new hangboard training.
1. as many pull ups as you can do - say 25.
2. 2 minutes rest
3. count backwards the amount of pull ups from 25 - i.e. next set is 24 pull up, followed by 23.
4. daily
5. get strong
good training. pyramids. will be sore. suggest some rest.
spoke to the good people in Hueco today and am told that things are quite busy. super psyched! soon the clouds will part and there will be sunshine again and climbing on actual rock. radical. keep moving. find projects. take good pictures. write something. climb hard. all in a days work.
as i read earlier - "its called rock climbing not rock falling."
any suggestion for classic lines in Hueco?
check this out if you get a chance. great organization. climbers doing wonderful things to help out as much as possible.
was training yesterday with friends. new hangboard training.
1. as many pull ups as you can do - say 25.
2. 2 minutes rest
3. count backwards the amount of pull ups from 25 - i.e. next set is 24 pull up, followed by 23.
4. daily
5. get strong
good training. pyramids. will be sore. suggest some rest.
spoke to the good people in Hueco today and am told that things are quite busy. super psyched! soon the clouds will part and there will be sunshine again and climbing on actual rock. radical. keep moving. find projects. take good pictures. write something. climb hard. all in a days work.
as i read earlier - "its called rock climbing not rock falling."
any suggestion for classic lines in Hueco?
Sunday, January 3, 2010
2010
it has been a little while - where do we get distracted?
some time in the cold cold city - home sweet home - and the body and mind just turn into goo. fair amount of training at MPHC - which is perfect in prep for winter climbing out west. cant wait to go ice climbing - inspiring. don't remember the last time i was on rock. actually, yes i do. training for that exact spot i kept falling off.
its amazing how surroundings and inspiration direct a person. what is important one day remains important the next, but a constant barrage on the senses can affect everything. a walk through times square, a train ride uptown, tea with friends, climbing on a lot of plastic, reading at home, studying and preparing, coordinating and going, cold and coughing, loving and.......keep moving.
if you have a chance check out the fred nicole video on youtube that Prana just put out. short video, but great interview with Fred, and totally ups the psyche. the man has been doing it his way for 25 years, finding hard lines and going after it, always on the edge, traveling and moving and staying focused. travels to inspirations to long awaited sends. when considering someone like Fred Nicole in rock climbing one has to make comparisons to Michael Jordan, to Ali, Montana, Pele, all the greats. the vision and the courage to go after it. without hesitation and without compromise. Fred has been doing it for so many years now, he is a master. a true master in a sport with so many varied disciplines and so many varied possibilites. how can one do it all? htat was Odubs question. its so true - so much rock and so little time. so many lines and places and people. not enough time, not enough cash - but certainly a well maintained community to keep it going. having fun and keeping it clean. all in the experience.
its snowing in Utah - 16 degrees in NYC, 60 in Hueco, 69 in Los Angeles, lots of ice in Ouray.......which direction to go?
looking forward to routes tomorrow. couple more weeks then its back on the road. the farm is well, the house is clean, the night wares on, and there is much to do before the sun rears its smiling head.
on some peak somewhere are a small crew of climbers wondering whether to turn around or not. a couple of dirtbags sleeping underneath a boulder. at the base of a cliff. in the winter part. upon the ice and snow, in the sand and soot, crashing at the bottom of the desert floor. spires, peaks, and large intestines.
late night in city. ready for tomorrows action - sans dj. can't wait to get back out west and up north again!
and also, if you have the time consider giving some disposable capital to www.laytonkorclimbing.com and www.thp.org. great causes i have recently given some change to. check it out yo. and might i suggets "post card from the trailer park" and the John Gill biorgraphy for light reading - along with Mike Doyles training tips on his website - http://www.mikedoyle.ca/ great!
some time in the cold cold city - home sweet home - and the body and mind just turn into goo. fair amount of training at MPHC - which is perfect in prep for winter climbing out west. cant wait to go ice climbing - inspiring. don't remember the last time i was on rock. actually, yes i do. training for that exact spot i kept falling off.
its amazing how surroundings and inspiration direct a person. what is important one day remains important the next, but a constant barrage on the senses can affect everything. a walk through times square, a train ride uptown, tea with friends, climbing on a lot of plastic, reading at home, studying and preparing, coordinating and going, cold and coughing, loving and.......keep moving.
if you have a chance check out the fred nicole video on youtube that Prana just put out. short video, but great interview with Fred, and totally ups the psyche. the man has been doing it his way for 25 years, finding hard lines and going after it, always on the edge, traveling and moving and staying focused. travels to inspirations to long awaited sends. when considering someone like Fred Nicole in rock climbing one has to make comparisons to Michael Jordan, to Ali, Montana, Pele, all the greats. the vision and the courage to go after it. without hesitation and without compromise. Fred has been doing it for so many years now, he is a master. a true master in a sport with so many varied disciplines and so many varied possibilites. how can one do it all? htat was Odubs question. its so true - so much rock and so little time. so many lines and places and people. not enough time, not enough cash - but certainly a well maintained community to keep it going. having fun and keeping it clean. all in the experience.
its snowing in Utah - 16 degrees in NYC, 60 in Hueco, 69 in Los Angeles, lots of ice in Ouray.......which direction to go?
looking forward to routes tomorrow. couple more weeks then its back on the road. the farm is well, the house is clean, the night wares on, and there is much to do before the sun rears its smiling head.
on some peak somewhere are a small crew of climbers wondering whether to turn around or not. a couple of dirtbags sleeping underneath a boulder. at the base of a cliff. in the winter part. upon the ice and snow, in the sand and soot, crashing at the bottom of the desert floor. spires, peaks, and large intestines.
late night in city. ready for tomorrows action - sans dj. can't wait to get back out west and up north again!
and also, if you have the time consider giving some disposable capital to www.laytonkorclimbing.com and www.thp.org. great causes i have recently given some change to. check it out yo. and might i suggets "post card from the trailer park" and the John Gill biorgraphy for light reading - along with Mike Doyles training tips on his website - http://www.mikedoyle.ca/ great!
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